Christmas Markets in Cologne

What is at the essence of a good Christmas Market? I kept asking myself this question after consuming my fourth mug of Gluhwein. Well, for one, the Gluhwein helps (more on that later). I walked from booth to booth involuntarily flicking my tongue against the roof of my mouth, stirring up the taste of warm cinnamon wine and dehydrated air into my taste receptors, serving as a reminder to drink more water. I ignored all of my instincts because I desperately wanted to find out what makes the Cologne Christmas Markets magical.

Let's rewind this adventure by about three hours. Sssiurrrgghhhrrwrrrp (rewind-sound). We traveled to Cologne by train. The only reason this is important to know is that it may have set the right tone from the start. You step out of the train station, you see people looking up at something, so you naturally look too. And there it is, the Kölner Dom, or as we Americans call it, the Cologne Cathedral. The Kölner Dom is the largest cathedral in Germany, and you know what? It's pretty majestic.

Our first stop of the day was the conveniently located Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral Christmas Market). Literally steps away from the train station. The stand out feature of this market was that you could be looking up from anywhere and be greeted by an epic view of the Cologne Cathedral. We skipped and hopped around the market, basking in the holiday lights and soaking in the scent of nutmeg. This is when we were introduced to the concept of Gluhwein and refundable mugs.

Gluhwein is basically warm sangria with cinnamon and cloves. It's sweet wine that leaves a wake of warmth within you with every sip you take. How do you know if someone is drinking Gluhwein? Well, it's hard to miss all the rosy cheeks walking around the market with their festive ceramic mugs. This was new to someone that associated Christmas Market beverages with 7-11 quality hot chocolate served in styrofoam cups.

The second market we stumbled into was the Nikolaus Dorf on Rudolfplatz. This market was quaint and cozy. The booth design immediately stood out compared to the first market. There was a more artisan craft that captured the Christmas spirit in a way that the Weihnachtsmarkt am Kolner Dom couldn't. The first order of action was to acquire more Gluhwein. Every market had different takes on their mugs. This one opted for a rounded mug with different illustrations of snowmen laid over a bright Christmas red background.

At this point, you might be wondering how the markets can get away with handing out real mugs without theft? The trick is to upcharge every beverage and offer a two Euro refund for the return of every mug. Everyone wins in this scenario because, 1. real mugs create a much more pleasing environment, 2. You get to keep the mug if you don’t return it, and 3. Waste is reduced all around. While every market had its own unique flare, the food and drinks served at all of the markets (except one) were similar. You had a lot of the German classics such as Bratwurst with bread, currywurst, flamkuchen, sauerkraut, potato pancakes, and more!

Next up was the Stadtgarten Market! This was the hipster market. The booths were made out of a light cedar wood and the offerings were eccentric. Remember when I said all of the markets served similar food except for one? Well, this was the odd child out. Along with the classics, falafel, kimchi, and gin cocktails served in flasks were consumed all around.

Despite lacking some of the Christmas charm of the other markets, this one was definitely memorable. Last on the list was the Alter Markt (Old Market). This market was my favorite, but only by a slight margin. It had the best combination of charm and offerings. The booths and trees were completely littered with light decorations, which were further illuminated by the setting sun. Night time revealed a more playful side of the markets and was very much worth exploring.

Having now finished my fourth Gluhwein of the day, I felt like I cracked it. The essence of a good Christmas market experience was offering all the Christmas classics, focusing on creating a festive atmosphere, offering Gluhwein in adorable mugs, and having many different markets to explore.