Seville with a Splash of Cadiz

Seville is one of the few places on earth where you might order something as dull sounding as tomato spread on toasted bread and still be texting your amigos back in the states about how good it was. It didn’t stop there though — the olive oil on toasted bread, anchovies on toasted bread, and everything in between on toasted bread was equally memorable. You’ve probably heard the word tapas being thrown into any sentence that describes Seville. Well, it’s done for good reason. There are a lot of tapas restaurants in Seville — to the point where I started wondering if Seville’s obsession with tapas evolved organically over centuries of cultural fusion or if visitors drove such a demand for it that even the local McDonald’s started offering a baby tapas Big Mac.

Ultimately, it didn’t matter how we got here, because gorging yourself with tapas in Seville is still a unique experience. One of the more memorable tapas joints on our trip was Arte y Sabor. Located just north of Columnas de Hércules, this restaurant offered intricate dishes with Moroccan and Mediterranean influences that had me frozen in time, imagining myself shrunk to the size of a bread crumb, sliding a $20 bill into the bouncers hand to let me into the theater of my mouth, so I could witness the flamenco taking place between all of the ingredients with my own eyes.

Another restaurant that left a mark on us was the La Antigua Abaceria. This one was more subdued and steeped in history. Iberian ham hung from the rafters, celebrating retired hall of famers that have now moved on to a new chapter in their lives where they get to be enjoyed by a whole new fan base. The ingredients in La Antigua Abaceria were simple and thoughtful. From chorizos to aged cheeses, every bite delivered a mesmerizing punch.

Despite spending four paragraphs talking about tapas, there’s so much more to Seville. For one, the sun is always out. Then there are the palm trees and castles. The entire city is basically covered in bright earth tones. Walking around the different streets will remind you to slow down and just go with the flow. While you’re in Seville, two places you won’t want to miss are the Plaza de Espana (no tickets needed) and the Alcazar (tickets needed). Don’t scramble for tickets the day you arrive like us. Make sure you purchase ahead of time! The Moorish architecture and intricate tile art of these places will make you feel like you went back in time.

Depending on how long you’re in Seville, you might fancy yourself a day trip. We opted for the coastal town of Cadiz and were not disappointed. Before looking at trains or buses, check out the BlaBlaCar app, where you can find a cheap carpool with vetted drivers for a fraction of the price of a train ticket. Our car dropped us off at the Playa de la Victoria, where we walked barefoot on the beach towards the city, experiencing the refreshing fall breeze and an epic sight of the Cadiz Cathedral. In the city, we got lost in the many different alleyways until our feet demanded a break and led us into Taberna La Manzanilla, where we were introduced to a local variety of sherry wine called manzanilla. Every sip carried a dry, fresh, and delicate flavor. Coupled alongside our manzanilla was the tastiest family of olives we have ever had. These olives were stuffed with pickled anchovies so tasty that every bite evoked the cathartic laughter of a comic book villain.

After indulging in delicious manzanilla and olives, our stomachs desired something heartier, so we made our way to a nearby place that was recommended to us — La Candela. This was a deliciously creative tapas bar with a cool decor and cooler Sangria that I highly recommend if you’re in the neighborhood. After collecting a nice buzz, we wandered to Genovés Park where we pondered the meaning of life among perfectly trimmed bushes and stray kittens. The last stop in Cadiz led us to Torre Tavira, a tower standing tall among the white buildings that artfully littered this city. If you’re claustrophobic in any way, you will have to ignore the inner voice urging you to stay back until you’ve made it to the roof of the tower, because the views will be worth it. Back in Seville, we took inventory of all the fun we had during our time in this region and swore that this wasn’t going to be our last time in Andalusia.